22. Berlin, Germany
As we made our descent at Tempelhof Airport, I was certain we were going to land in someone’s back garden. The airport seems to be right in the middle of the city. Close by were boating lakes, rivers and forests. I learned on a tour of the city that water sports are popular in Berlin and that pigs can be seen walking the streets. I looked forward to a weekend of surprises.
The tour of the city recounted Germany’s history form WW2 to present day. The account of the division of Berlin, with barbed wire overnight, in 1961 and the subsequent building of the Wall, caging the residents of East Berlin in for nearly 30 years sent chills down my spine. Many escaped. Many were shot dead. It’s the first time I’ve been to Germany. It was disturbing to see the destruction of the city, but encouraging to see how it has totally rebuilt itself not once, but twice in 60 years. There’s a bombed out church here, Liz the Lunch. Interesting project for USL in future years?
I was only in the city for two days but met with several people working in the creative sector. Few had memories of 1988 when West Berlin was European Capital of Culture. The only surviving memories were of a huge party and no investment in the future of the arts.
I wonder if Capital of Culture has a ‘shelf life’ of around 10 years - 4 before, the year itself and then the 5 years of recovery and rebuilding afterwards. Perhaps Guimaeres 2012 is on to something. Of course there are lasting legacies, development of skills; renovation of old, and construction of new buildings; opening of minds and eyes.
For Liverpool (2008) it is considered to be as the saviour of the city. Perhaps we are depending on it just a little too much. For Istanbul (2010) it is an opportunity to strengthen its position to become an EU member state and to engage local people in the arts. For Sibiu (2007), it is riding the crest of a wave. For Thessaloniki (1997) there was a legacy of 5 years. For Graz (2003) it was a year that they are only just recovering from now. And for Porto (2001), it is best forgotten.
I’m not a fan of musicals, but I thoroughly enjoyed Roman Polanski’s production of Tanz der Vampire, a brilliant musical with music by Jim Steinman (he what wrote Meat Loaf’s good songs). I also met up with an opera singer friend who I met in Croatia, who introduced me to some of the nightlife in Berlin. Quite a musical weekend. I was in Berlin on 16th September, the 30th anniversary of Marc Bolan’s death. As I walked the streets, I saw a poster for Suzi Quatro and the Sweet in concert. I wonder if T.Rex would still be dragging themselves around the 70s nostalgia tour circuit? I wasn’t quite sure who the Sweet would be. Brian Connolly and Mick Tucker (singer and drummer respectively) died some years ago, and Steve Priest lives in America and doesn’t do the nostalgia thing.
I connected with Berlin. I’m not sure whether is was the stunning modern architecture; its history and recovery, or that Germany produces the best EuroDisco music! Maybe it was the free and easy attitude, the openness. Maybe the friendliness of the people.
Maybe I was connecting with some of my heritage. For years my family thought that my maternal great great great grandparents, Esberge originated from Scandinavia. They didn’t. They were from Berlin. And after visiting here I was chuffed that they were.
Ich bin ein Berliner. Well, I’m not but I did eat one.
The tour of the city recounted Germany’s history form WW2 to present day. The account of the division of Berlin, with barbed wire overnight, in 1961 and the subsequent building of the Wall, caging the residents of East Berlin in for nearly 30 years sent chills down my spine. Many escaped. Many were shot dead. It’s the first time I’ve been to Germany. It was disturbing to see the destruction of the city, but encouraging to see how it has totally rebuilt itself not once, but twice in 60 years. There’s a bombed out church here, Liz the Lunch. Interesting project for USL in future years?
I was only in the city for two days but met with several people working in the creative sector. Few had memories of 1988 when West Berlin was European Capital of Culture. The only surviving memories were of a huge party and no investment in the future of the arts.
I wonder if Capital of Culture has a ‘shelf life’ of around 10 years - 4 before, the year itself and then the 5 years of recovery and rebuilding afterwards. Perhaps Guimaeres 2012 is on to something. Of course there are lasting legacies, development of skills; renovation of old, and construction of new buildings; opening of minds and eyes.
For Liverpool (2008) it is considered to be as the saviour of the city. Perhaps we are depending on it just a little too much. For Istanbul (2010) it is an opportunity to strengthen its position to become an EU member state and to engage local people in the arts. For Sibiu (2007), it is riding the crest of a wave. For Thessaloniki (1997) there was a legacy of 5 years. For Graz (2003) it was a year that they are only just recovering from now. And for Porto (2001), it is best forgotten.
I’m not a fan of musicals, but I thoroughly enjoyed Roman Polanski’s production of Tanz der Vampire, a brilliant musical with music by Jim Steinman (he what wrote Meat Loaf’s good songs). I also met up with an opera singer friend who I met in Croatia, who introduced me to some of the nightlife in Berlin. Quite a musical weekend. I was in Berlin on 16th September, the 30th anniversary of Marc Bolan’s death. As I walked the streets, I saw a poster for Suzi Quatro and the Sweet in concert. I wonder if T.Rex would still be dragging themselves around the 70s nostalgia tour circuit? I wasn’t quite sure who the Sweet would be. Brian Connolly and Mick Tucker (singer and drummer respectively) died some years ago, and Steve Priest lives in America and doesn’t do the nostalgia thing.
I connected with Berlin. I’m not sure whether is was the stunning modern architecture; its history and recovery, or that Germany produces the best EuroDisco music! Maybe it was the free and easy attitude, the openness. Maybe the friendliness of the people.
Maybe I was connecting with some of my heritage. For years my family thought that my maternal great great great grandparents, Esberge originated from Scandinavia. They didn’t. They were from Berlin. And after visiting here I was chuffed that they were.
Ich bin ein Berliner. Well, I’m not but I did eat one.
